415 days, 10 hours, 8 minutes since Bush is out of office!.

Why They Charge $700 For Ball Joints on an Aerostar

OK. So a while back I took my 1993 Ford Aerostar to be inspected and it got dinged because she needed to have her Upper Ball Joints Replaced. So I got a great big REJECTED sticker for my troubles.

Truth be told...I had a feeling this might be the case, because I'd replaced the lower ball-joints back in 2007, and WANTED to change the uppers then...

...it just looked like a bit more work than I was ready for at the time. 

So, since I was not working today, I jumped up this morning, cleaned a little, straigthened a little, and got started on this mechanics job at about noon...

...and the next thing I knew? It was dark...

View From Drivers' Side

A view from the Passenger side

The reason it took me so long, is because I pulled her around to the back yard, where our ground is eternally smooshy (for lack of a better word). 

Smooshy ground is not a good thing for jacking up cars, or for supporting them for them matter.

Keep in mind that 2 tons of Aerostar crashing to the ground would make minced-meat of my tiny human form...and I kind of like my noggin' in it's current un-squished state. 


So to keep her from sinking, falling over, and decapitating me or crushing me to death, I had to cut dunnage (wooden blocks) to put underneath my jackstands and my floor jack. (if you look in the picture above, you'll see the chop-saw I used to cut my 2x4's)

WHAT A PAIN!!!
Dunnage JacksDunnage Floor Jack
Each time I moved my floor jack, I had to take up,
and then restack, my two layers of dunnage.

 
Once she was all jacked-up, I started working on changing the ball-joints.

When I started out, I figured I'd be at it for 2 maybe 3 hours TOPS. That was before I discovered that I'd have to pull the whole assembly out and DRILL the old rivets out!!!

Thank God I have Grandaddy's old vice mounted on my bench!!
 
Here is what the old ball-joints looked like
after I pulled them out and drilled out the rivets.

Old Ball-Joint  Old Ball-Joint Bottom
Drill Out
Here is a close-up of my very neat and tidy drill-motor work.
It was a little difficult, cause I had to use my 3/8" DeWalt
instead of my 1/2" Stainless Steel Milwaukee.
(couldn't find the damned thing)

I got it all figured out on the 2nd one I removed, when I realized that I did not have to drill all the way through the rivets.

On the 2nd one, I only drilled about 1/4 of the way into the rivet, past the top layer of steel. Then I cut off what was left of the rivet-head with a trusty 1920's cold chisel (cut through it like butter), and this allowed me to just pop the arm right off the ball-joint with my hands.  WAY EASIER.


The replacement bolts came with pinched-head nuts which made for a nice tight fit.  I applied some high grade red Loc-tite on all the threads to make doubly sure those suckers don't go anywhere.

 

Here's a shot of the shiny new upper ball-joint in place,
waiting for me to put the wheel back on. 
New Ball-Joint

I'm patting myself on the back...even if it took me all day to do this thing.

I just saved myself at least $700 BUCKS!!

-The Dickens